Pamplona to Puerte del Reine - May 6, 2015

OK, back to business. This started out OK but eventually became the worst  day so far, mostly due to poor choices made by yours truly. It was also the longest day so far as I write this from May 10 (sorry I am so far behind) at 10.5 hours, 9.5 of which walking and 33 km logged on my Map My Walk app. :(

     Starting out, walking through the city of Pamplona, it was very pleasant. My first stop was the Universidad (de Pamplona, I assume), a short detour to get a sello (stamp) which of course I am collecting along the way. First of many detours, some intentional and some not, that contributed to my exhausting day. Then an 8.5 km walk, the last 2.4 very steep, to Alto de Perdon (the Height of Forgiveness, Google's best translation). Many of you will recognize the metal sculptures of pilgrims through the ages if you have read about the Camino (or seen the movie "The Way") Then a very steep descent on small, rolling stones (yay walking sticks, again) to Uterga.

  Then a bad decision for the end of the day for a very out of shape peregrina (that's me). It was an extra 3.2 km to go to Eunate to a 12th century Romanesque church. It is octagonal and modelled on the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem and is associated with the Knights Templar. It was very lovely and I happened to be there between groups of travellers so had it to myself for a few minutes...recorded Gregorian chant, very peaceful..However, now 5pm and still not close to Puente la Reine, my destination. And very tired at 28 km so far. Shortly after, I got lost and then my pace slowed to about 1km per hour. Really thought I was going to fall down in the street (yay sticks! again) Found the hotel, worst so far, at 7pm. No one to check me in, just harried waitresses running around. Finally in, after tearful breakdown (from exhaustion), then hobbled down to dinner.. really bad, didn't care.

Evening (and day) saved by generous cognac (at least 3 oz for 3.5 euros)and bed.

Grounds of the university

The landscape is so beautiful, everywhere

Alto de Perdon

Detail from Alto de Perdon, picked it because of the dog :)

Me as tour guide for Alto de Perdon..used my selfie stick

Other famous part of the Alto, the windmills

Church at Eunate

Detail of pillars, church built in the 1100's

The altar

My horrible room in a horrible hotel at the end of an exhausting day.

Yes, I am standing in the hallway to take this picture of the desk that mostly blocks the entrance to the miniscule bathroom. Couldn't wait to get out of here the next day. Had breakfast on the road.

Pamplona - May 5 - a day of blessed rest (and shopping)

Woke up in a nice hotel, ready for the day. My wants were few;  get my backpack fixed, get a Spanish sim card, find a new hat and "shop" if possible. Managed 3 of 4 ( no hat but brought my Tilley which will have to do) and, yes, I have a Spanish phone number which really only means I have access to the internet while on the Camino and overall, had a lovely day. Pamplona is a beautiful city and deserves some extra time. Would definitely avoid during " Bull Running" season in July.

Also managed a true Spanish siesta in the afternoon and then several pintxos ( pronounced "pinchos" ) on that beautiful Plaza del Castillo with accompanying vino rosados while the sun set. Tomorrow, back to business - walking the Camino

Here is the statue of Hemingway outside the Plaza del Toros ( bullfighting ring) - poor bulls :(

This is Calle Estefeta, the last part of the run, imagine hundreds of crazed bulls and crazy men running towards you.

This ends up at the bull ring just across the street. End of the line for the bulls

City Hall

Oh, I also bought myself a Selfie stick ( so tacky!) This is my first selfie.

Zubiri to Pamplona - May 4, 2015

 Day 3 was another 22 km walk to the first major city, Pamplona, most famous for its association with Ernest Hemingway and for the Festival of St. Fermin ( The Running of the Bulls ) in July. It started out great with a bit of rain and not too challenging terrain. Unfortunately, the Camino ate my hat somewhere along the way. I had not yet worn it (no sun ) but as soon as I was aware it was gone, blazing sunshine (of course ). Then I stepped on and broke the waist clasp of my pack, curses ! ( hikers know this is the most important one to prevent back and shoulder strain) and then I got lost : ( 

  Ultimately put back on track by first someone speaking only French ( Etes-vous perdu? Oui!! ) and then a kindly Spanish man who turned me around before I marched off again in the wrong direction.

Struggled into Pamplona, a very old fortified city that was founded in first century BC. Lovely place. Somehow was able to rally enough energy to go out for a walk around, a glass of rosada (rose wine, very nice) and dinner with  Catherine and Helen, my Camino friends from Ireland, that I had met in St. Jean, a day that seems like a lifetime ago. I have a rest day here in Pamplona but alas, they are just doing part of the Camino and must trek on so we will part tomorrow. :(

Above, industrial complex at Zubiri that a knowledgeable Australian woman "from a mining district" told me produced magnesium and below, a small snake on the path (no Gini, I did not pick it up or otherwise disturb it other than a gentle poke to see if it was dead..it wasn't, just moving slow like me in the morning :)

13th century Iglesia de San Estaban, maintained by the Sisters of the Sacred Heart

Beautiful altar in tiny San Estaban

Very old buildings

Coming into Pamplona, fields of canola

Arre - a town, not a pirate's cry. Just before I got lost..

Church  in Arre ( where I broke my pack buckle..curses were heard here)

The walled city of Pamplona, at last

Cafe Iruna, associated with Hemingway

Interior of Cafe Iruna, maintained the same style as in the time of Hemingway

Left to right: Catherine, Rosada, Helen.

Roncesvalles to Zubiri - May 3, 2015

Thought I might never walk again after yesterday but legs started working after a little warm-up. Hotel was very modern in a very old monastery which also houses an "albergue", the hostels that are the main accomodation on the Camino, strictly first come, first served and not at all comfortable. I am glad I am doing this with pre-booked hotel rooms and a luggage carrier service, my day pack weighs 10 - 12 pounds; the aubergue denizens carry double that.

This day was generally much easier than the first day. Mostly gently downhill through farmland and forest. I could have been in Ontario except for the mountains in the background - in that case, it could have been the Laurentians in Quebec as I think they look similar.

My final destination was a little industrial village, Zubiri. Still was exhausted ( 7 hours, 22 km) at the end and the beer was exceptionally delicious.

My destination. Eeekk

This is the monastery complex

Can see those bits of snow in the background. I was there yesterday !

These boots are no longer made for walking : (

A signpost along the way...

My final destination in the distance

St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles (aka Ronceveaux - May 2, 2015

Okay, that was really hard. Probably the hardest thing I have ever done in my life. No amount of reading, talking, researching, will give you any idea of just how hard it is, especially for someone who is not a walker, only went on a few long walks before this and who had to lie down for 2 hours after a 20 km walk ON THE LEVEL.  

I walked for about 8 hours, mostly UP and the last 2 hours steeply down on very wobbly legs, thank God for walking poles, likely saved my life or at least a limb or 2. :)

The first picture shows the sign at the beginning of the walk - that first destination is the highest point, Col de Lepoeder at 1450 m (SJPdP is at 200m) and Ronceveaux (Roncesvalles in Spain) is the final destination. I will put the pictures in roughly chronological order for the day as this Blogger app is not friendly to use on my phone (at least I can use it, Thanks Allison)

I am also writing this on May 5 (Happy Birthday Bill) because I have been too exhausted at the end of my days to do much more than eat and crash. 

I will try to be more diligent after I have caught up to today (May 5 in Pamplona; blessed rest day)

It was blowing a gale, literally. This is that highest point

Believe it or not, I took a picture of snow ( ! ) as there still is some in the highest places.

St Jean Pied de Port

Arrived yesterday after a some what gruelling journey ( planes, trains and buses). Lovely ancient village with those Pyrenees looming over it, my first goal tomorrow. Plan today is to toodle around here, sightseeing and maybe shop (?! Sarah will approve) and recover from jet lag.

Local wildlife

On the walk today