End of my Camino - June 10, 2015

I am posting this in real time, recognizing that I am quite far behind with my updates. I just wanted to put something down tonight, my last night "on the road" as I walk into Santiago de Campostela tomorrow. This has been an incredible journey, at first seemed that it would take forever and here I am now, almost at the end. 

 

All things must come to an end and part of me is eager to get back home to "real life" but another part is incredibly sad to be leaving this life I have known for the past 6 weeks. I have met some fantastic people along the way and also have had so much time to spend with myself, sorting things out in my mind. I have no great revelations to impart;  no life-changing decisions made. It has been an amazing experience. Spain is such a wonderful landscape. I hope to return again.

I have every intention to finish the blog but it will be when back home.

Final "Menu del Peregrino" tonight, final laundry done. And final morning foot ritual (No Blisters AT ALL!!! - in 6 weeks! ) and putting on the pack tomorrow. The walk tomorrow is the shortest at about 15km - no problem.  A few days of travel afterwards and I'm back!

Looking forward to seeing/ hearing from you all then.

Good night.

 Love,Judith

Leon to Mazarife - May 28, 2015

Up and out of Leon early today. The first part of the walk is again through industrial areas. Eventually it was Meseta again. I was supposed to go to Mazarife -Tio Pepe's bar - and call the hotel to come and pick me up as it was over 8 km out of town. Then I could have the option of returning to Mazarife the next day to walk that distance or I could again "skip it" and continue from the hotel. 

I still felt like I "cheated" so long ago outside Atapuerca when I took the ride (and didn't make it up the next day) so I decided I would walk it today. Going back (for any reason) on the Camino is one of the hardest things EVER. No wasted steps. And I knew I would be sorely tested the next day to consider going back ( 8 km equals 2 hours of walking time; it is not insignificant!)

   So I was resolved and when I got to Mazarife at about 1pm, I kept on going...on the straightest,flatest, hottest and possibly most boring part of the Camino. There was not another soul for over 12 km except for occasional farm vehicle, because that's how far it was, not 8. I saw a car parked in the distance on the side of the road. It took me 2 hours to reach it. 

I had a strange experience in the middle of this walk when my iPhone suddenly started playing music. I haven't listened to music on the Camino, prefer the silence and nature sounds. The strangest thing however was that the song was not one of mine. The phone had randomly gone to iTunes and started playing a sample of a song. I liked it and bought it while on the road. The really strange part is that when I listened to and looked at it at the hotel, it was from a just released Christian rock album, something I never listen to. Why did my phone do that? A "religious" experience. The title was "You are with me (Madness)", which somewhat fit me at the time it started playing, especially the madness part; in the middle of nowhere with a broiling sun and no shade anywhere and not a single place to stop or sit, just keep walking....

The other weird part was that it was only released the day before.

Eventually I made it to the Casa Rural - run by Mercedes.  Still freaked out by that iPhone "religious" experience.

More hobbit houses

This bar was just over the hill from those houses. Translation: Middle Earth bar :-0

Near the iTunes "religious experience"

It really was very empty and I was very alone and probably a bit "mad". The tree was too far off route to get some shade from it.

Casa Rural 8 km outside of Mazarife  - kind of like a bed and breakfast but also including dinner. Run by Mercedes, the lovliest, nicest host yet. It was like staying in a big country home and she cooked us a family meal. There were only three New Zealand women and myself staying here. Wished I had skipped the 8 km walk in this case so I could have spent more time here in the afternoon...however would really never have known .. So, glad I did it..No Regrets

Leon - my favorite place so far - rest day May 27, 2015

I so love this city, probably because of the cathedral which was truly stunning. Not nearly as big as Burgos cathedral but  so beautiful. The story of its salvation at the end of the 19th century is also amazing. 

It was built in the early Gothic style, very clean lines and ornamentation but over the centuries, various and sundry bishops, benefactors etc. added new styles, including Baroque altars etc. All these "renovations" started to significantly affect the structural integrity of this cathedral. There was a major collapse of the nave in the 1700's  and by the early 1800's, the cathedral was at major risk to become a ruin. 

  First architect they hired did some drastic removal of old changes but the church became in even greater danger of collapse. Forget the man's name, but around 1850 a different architect was hired and his plan was to take the cathedral back to its pure Gothic design.

   Scaffolding was erected and the amazing 125 stained glass windows were removed, labelled and put in boxes and the facelift began. The Baroque gewgaws and ornamentation was removed. Most of the main altar was restored to the cleaner, Gothic style although I believe one statue of Mary remains. In early 1900's, it was complete. 125 stained glass windows were put back together (world's largest jigsaw puzzle likely), reinstalled and the scaffolding was removed. Leon held its breath. The building groaned and settled onto it's foundations. Over 50 years of renovation was a resounding success. It is a testament to the town of Leon that a population of less than 5000 in the early 1200's could have supported the construction of such a magnificent structure. It is also amazing what they did to save it over 600 years later.

I came into this cathedral as soon as the doors opened in the morning, just barely beating a large tour group through the door. But unlike Burgos cathedral , even with groups of people around you, it was hushed and quiet, very contemplative. The story of its salvation was enough to bring me to tears; as was the overall beauty of the place. There was such peace.....Church of the Cranky Old Man laid to rest???

Tour groups waiting to get in at opening

I took lots of pictures of the stained glass. Sorry if they are blurry, I was trying to listen to the self-guide tour handset and take pics at the same time

The main altar

Interesting statue of Mary as it shows her pregnant.

This carving also interesting - it shows Mary near the top having just given birth and the infant Jesus being bathed and attended to by midwives

below

This is the Parador San Marco where I stayed my second night in Leon.

Looking down from the third floor to the reception

My room, again very nice. View is of a parking lot although there is a large balcony

This is a famous statue on the Camino. This pilgrim is resting his feet while admiring the splendour of the Parador - which by the way was a place for pilgrims to stay hundreds of years ago. Now he can't afford it!

Mansilla de Las Mulas to Leon - May 26, 2015

Relatively short day to get into Leon but warned about the traffic, noise and distractions getting into this large city (pop 130,000). Because I was expecting the worst, the modern part of the journey was clearly marked and went without a problem. 

 The old city was another story. I swear there is not one right-angled intersection anywhere in old Leon. And street names - forget it. Following the flechas amarillas (yellow arrows) and shells was a bit of Hansel-and-Gretel-follow-the-bread-crumb route and I was almost ready to give up when I decided to go into a hotel and ask for directions and exclaim "Estoy perdida" ( I am lost) - when my suitcase rolled by, having just been delivered. No estoy perdida!

This was the Casa de Espiritualidad in St. Isidoro and was a lovely place, reminiscent of my favourite, Monasterio San Zoilo in Carrion de los Condes. 

I was a bit sorry I had booked at the Parador San Marco for the next evening as this was very nice too. But I did want to see the Parador.

It meant my rest day would be a bit complicated as I would have to manage the transfer to the Parador myself but I would figure it out.

 Looked around Leon a bit, put some more money on my Spanish sim so I could still get internet on the road and then retraced my "breadcrumbs" and had drinks and early dinner on the plaza overlooking the Cathedral, one of my goals for tomorrow.

Loved Leon!! Would go back in a heartbeat. I then had a real Guiness at the Dickens pub on my way back to the hotel and to bed. Cathedral in the morning, then moving day.

Leaving Mansilla de Las Mulas - tried to edit to show the walls of the town  with the scalloped battlements

Liked this door

Will keep torturing you with storks - the pictures are never as great as they are.

Puente Castro - entering older part of Leon

A peek at flying buttresses of this wonderful Gothic cathedral - more tomorrow

Left to go - have walked over 470 km so far.

Casa de Botines - neo-Gothic palace designed by Gaudi and finished in 1890's

Statue of Gaudi facing his masterpiece here in Leon- sketching. Gaudi's most famous building is the modern La Sagrada Familia cathedral in Barcelona which I saw in 1987 and is still under construction. It has been under construction since 1884! Over 130 years.

Me and Rosado - best buddies

For tomorrow..

Homeward bound beer

Reception area of my very nice first hotel in Leon - didn't take many more pics than this.

View from my window of the inner courtyard.

El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de Las Mulas - May 25, 2015

Still in the Meseta, making my way to Leon and another rest day. Looking forward to it as I have booked a night in the Parador there, the same 5 star hotel that was in "that movie"

Train speeding back to Burgos to pick up more Meseta skippers

Elvis bar in Reliegos

beautiful scent as well

Arch coming into Mansilla de Las Mulas - Arco de Santa Maria - the only remaining medieval city gate in existence, according to Brierley. My hotel is just behind me, the Camino into town is in front.

Where I am staying

Lovely room but the most ridiculously small shower in existence..Oh well

Their back garden and work area

Dining room. This was the most cluttered place I had ever seen, but clean and charming too.

On to Leon tomorrow!

Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero - May 24, 2015

This was a lovely "typical" walk into and through the Meseta.  Not a lot to say or pics- but it was grand.

Bridge leaving Sahagun

Should read - 345 km to Santiago

Another "The Way" moment - maybe this was the place; in any event, the trees are on your left as you proceed

I so love these yellow butterfly bushes...just a shot to show how prevalent they are.

In El Burgo Ranero

Storks my new obsession; so over poppies :-)

Some challenge to find my hotel even though a very small place. The people there were so kind and friendly.