Leon - my favorite place so far - rest day May 27, 2015

I so love this city, probably because of the cathedral which was truly stunning. Not nearly as big as Burgos cathedral but  so beautiful. The story of its salvation at the end of the 19th century is also amazing. 

It was built in the early Gothic style, very clean lines and ornamentation but over the centuries, various and sundry bishops, benefactors etc. added new styles, including Baroque altars etc. All these "renovations" started to significantly affect the structural integrity of this cathedral. There was a major collapse of the nave in the 1700's  and by the early 1800's, the cathedral was at major risk to become a ruin. 

  First architect they hired did some drastic removal of old changes but the church became in even greater danger of collapse. Forget the man's name, but around 1850 a different architect was hired and his plan was to take the cathedral back to its pure Gothic design.

   Scaffolding was erected and the amazing 125 stained glass windows were removed, labelled and put in boxes and the facelift began. The Baroque gewgaws and ornamentation was removed. Most of the main altar was restored to the cleaner, Gothic style although I believe one statue of Mary remains. In early 1900's, it was complete. 125 stained glass windows were put back together (world's largest jigsaw puzzle likely), reinstalled and the scaffolding was removed. Leon held its breath. The building groaned and settled onto it's foundations. Over 50 years of renovation was a resounding success. It is a testament to the town of Leon that a population of less than 5000 in the early 1200's could have supported the construction of such a magnificent structure. It is also amazing what they did to save it over 600 years later.

I came into this cathedral as soon as the doors opened in the morning, just barely beating a large tour group through the door. But unlike Burgos cathedral , even with groups of people around you, it was hushed and quiet, very contemplative. The story of its salvation was enough to bring me to tears; as was the overall beauty of the place. There was such peace.....Church of the Cranky Old Man laid to rest???

Tour groups waiting to get in at opening

I took lots of pictures of the stained glass. Sorry if they are blurry, I was trying to listen to the self-guide tour handset and take pics at the same time

The main altar

Interesting statue of Mary as it shows her pregnant.

This carving also interesting - it shows Mary near the top having just given birth and the infant Jesus being bathed and attended to by midwives

below

This is the Parador San Marco where I stayed my second night in Leon.

Looking down from the third floor to the reception

My room, again very nice. View is of a parking lot although there is a large balcony

This is a famous statue on the Camino. This pilgrim is resting his feet while admiring the splendour of the Parador - which by the way was a place for pilgrims to stay hundreds of years ago. Now he can't afford it!