Started out as usual, breakfast and then getting the pack on.
Hmm...some similiarities- don't you think?
Sunrise over Fromista, where I have been - next to my favorite roadside weed plant - what is it? It looks like yellow butterflies and they are everywhere!
Pilgrim silhouette beckoning to my next destination
Wild roses in Spain - they have the standard pink ones and then these!
Donkey and humans - leading me to the best, most peaceful, solitary and wonderful walk yet...
Another donkey in a field; almost made me leave the best route prematurely but got back on track after I took his picture.
End of a magical walk with Ermite de la Virgen del Rio in the background.
If you look closely, Donkey and family on the road in the foreground ...that was it.. and no one I could see behind me....so peaceful.
In Palencia there are not a lot of stones so many buildings are made of a mud and straw wattle. Also, there are storage areas (and homes too) built into the hillside, hobbit-like. Cooler in the summer and easier to keep warm in the winter.
To my left - waayyyy over there - multitudes of peregrinos who hadn't read of this wonderful alternative, walking the Highway to Hell - so estupido!
This picture was taken from the patio of a lovely cafe near the end of my morning walk where I stopped for lunch. Classical arias were playing (the Four Tenors ? ) and it was all so beautiful, it literally brought me to tears...
Then, I got into this village.
Villalcazar de Sirga. And all the wonderful feelings were blown away.
WARNING: Rant to follow. Feel free to ignore and just look at the pictures
Brierley (the guide book) talked about the 13th century Templar church, Santa Maria la Virgen Blanca and said it was a must-see, even for people who don't "do" churches and it looked impressive on the outside so I went in.
The man at the door to take the one euro fee (for pilgrims) had a sour, contemptuous look on his face as he took my euro and stamped my credencial. Then he started barking something in Spanish and gesticulating strongly off to one side of his desk. I didn't understand but assumed he wanted me to take off my backpack so hurried to comply; leaving my credential in front of him. He then barked something else and flung it across the desk at me. His anger and contempt were palpable.
Shaken, I picked up my credential and wandered around the church and took some photos. It is an impressive space but I was no longer "into" it.
Gathered up my backpack and left after maybe 10 minutes.
Donkey was parked out front; her people having a mid-day cafe. It turned out to be the last time I would see them. I just hurried out of town and got on the last unavoidable 6 km of Highway to Hell to Carrion de los Condes and I was seething!!
All the amazing feelings of the morning and lunch at that lovely space with the serene music were shredded. Why??
I am starting to believe the Camino is some kind of force; that it puts people, things, situations in your vision and then leaves it up to you to figure out the meaning - if any exists. So I had to analyze this interaction and put it behind me because it was wrecking my day.
And this is what I came to:
It was about a cranky old man in a Christian church. The Christian faith and indeed almost all faiths are organized and run by cranky old men who have nothing but anger and contempt towards women. They all need to control women and to tell them what to do because women are too stupid to figure it out for themselves.This is something I believed before going on the Camino and Camino confirmed my belief and conviction.
I have been asked if I am getting religious since starting this pilgrimage and I can emphatically state, NOT ON YOUR LIFE! Thank you, Camino; lesson learned.
And to paraphrase a song from an old musical - "I walked that man right outta my hair.. and sent him on his way"
And then I got to Carrion de los Condes and the magic returned! My hotel was formerly a monastery and is magnificient.
More photos from the day:
Church of the Cranky Old Man
Nice altar
Nice arches... OK, outta here
Bye bye Donkey. :-(
Entering Carrion de los Condes- and a better frame of mind
My room
View from my window
This place was amazing
Interesting juxtaposition of very modern crucifix with classic painting
One of the courtyards
This is a bar (of many) not currently open but Gregorian chant was playing. Maybe not your "cup of tea" but very restful
The chapel of the monastery, only people staying at the hotel can visit here. On my own, very quiet.
OK, took lots of pictures here but had to get back on the road the next day. 
Still a long walk ahead..
Halfway there!!! Yay!!
ReplyDeleteForget about the encounter with cranky arse, he is not worth it. Unfortunately, there are men in religion and outside of it who want to control and demean women, they are not worth your time! And you don't have to be religious to enjoy the spiritual beauty of nature, and architecture and history and poppies. :)